阅读系列 | 《墨雨云间》热播:宋代珍珠妆重现,吴谨言演绎复仇传奇



古装剧《墨雨云间》热播,重现宋代上流社会女士以珍珠妆提升魅力的时尚风潮。吴谨言饰演的女主角薛芳菲,在复仇故事中展现智慧与坚韧,赢得了观众的心。剧集通过珍珠妆、传统工艺等元素,巧妙融合历史与剧情,呈现了一场视觉与情感的盛宴。


Pearls are typically used for jewelry such as necklaces, bracelets or rings. However, in the Song Dynasty (960-1279), high-society ladies adorned their faces with these precious orbs, not for any practical purpose, but simply to enhance their beauty with a unique charm.

珍珠,作为首饰界的瑰宝,常被镶嵌于项链、手镯或戒指之中,尽显其优雅与华贵。然而,在遥远的宋朝(960-1279年),上层社会的女性却以这些珍稀宝石装点面庞,并非出于实用,而是纯粹为了增添一份独特的魅力,以提升自身之美。

The once-trendy fashion has been revived in the costume drama, The Double, marking actress Wu Jinyan's return to a revenge-themed tale after the phenomenal 2018 hit Story of Yanxi Palace.

这一风尚在古装剧《墨雨云间》中得以重现,剧中女主角吴谨言,继2018年热播的《延禧宫略》后再次挑战复仇题材。

In a standout episode, Wu, starring in the lead role of Xue Fangfei, partakes in a jili, or hair-pinning ceremony. Tracing its origins to the Western Zhou Dynasty (c. 11th century-771 BC), families would host this ritual for daughters reaching 15 years of age, or 20 if still unwed, elegantly coiling their hair into a bun and securing it with a hairpin.

她饰演的薛芳菲在剧中参与了一场名为“簪发”的仪式。这一仪式源自西周时期(约公元前11世纪至公元前771年),当家中年满15岁的女儿或20岁仍未婚的女儿,会被家人以簪子固定发髻,以展现其成年之美。

The scene showcases the ceremony-participating female guests — mostly from high-ranking families — bedecked with pearls on their cheeks and foreheads, sparking a flurry of lively discussions online.

在剧中,这一仪式上,众多来自名门望族的女性宾客,脸颊和额头都佩戴着珍珠,形成了一幅动人的画面,引起了网友们的热烈讨论。



Since its debut on the streaming platform Youku in early June, the 40-episode series has quickly soared to become the most-watched show on the platform, emerging as one of the biggest dark horses of the summer.

自6月初在优酷平台首播以来,这部40集的电视剧迅速崭露头角,成为该平台收视率最高的剧集之一,堪称暑期档的一匹黑马。

Set against an alternative historical backdrop, the tale follows the vengeful exploits of Xue, the daughter of a county magistrate framed for adultery by her husband and his scheming family.

《墨雨云间》以独特的历史背景为舞台,讲述了县令之女薛氏被丈夫及其家人诬陷通奸,从而踏上复仇之路的故事。

Buried alive as punishment, Xue is rescued by the eldest daughter of a high-ranking official who has been confined to a convent-like retreat by her jealous stepmother for 10 years. Assuming her savior's identity, the female protagonist infiltrates the elite circles of the imperial court, unraveling mysteries and plotting revenge while ultimately winning the love of a man worthy of entrusting the rest of her life.

薛氏被活埋作为惩罚,幸得一位高官长女相救,这位长女因继母的嫉妒而被囚禁在修道院般的隐居地长达十年。女主角假扮救命恩人,深入朝廷权贵圈,揭开真相,精心策划复仇,最终收获了美好的爱情。

Recognizing that the younger generation of Chinese audiences is more inclined toward short dramas in this fast-paced society driven by the internet, Ma, who is regarded by Yu as a seasoned professional familiar with the psychological elements that engage the audience quickly, was invited to join in writing the initial version of the script for The Double. "If you aim to strike a chord with the audience, you must imbue the lead character with a sense of realism," Ma says.

在快节奏的现代社会中,中国年轻观众更倾向于短剧。因此,资深编剧马诗歌,擅长捕捉观众心理,受邀参与了《替身》剧本的初版创作。他强调:“要让观众产生共鸣,主角必须真实可信。”



In the show, Xue is not an omnipotent heroine. She is clever and determined but also vulnerable and feels helpless upon discovering that her father is mentally unwell and her younger brother is imprisoned. Both incidents are orchestrated by her husband, who is compelled to commit these crimes under the orders of a villainous princess, who desires to marry him herself.

在《墨雨云间》中,薛芳菲并非无所不能的女英雄。她聪明、果断,但也有着脆弱的一面。在发现父亲精神失常、弟弟被囚禁后,她深感无助。这两起事件都是她丈夫在恶毒公主的胁迫下犯下的罪行。

"When the audience witnesses the female lead gradually bringing down the villains, they will acclaim the triumph of justice and consequently experience a sense of relief," Ma says, speaking of the successful formula.

马诗歌在谈及该剧成功时表示:“当观众看到女主角一步步战胜邪恶,他们会为正义的胜利而欢呼,感受到一种解脱。”

China's extensive history and cultural heritage, developed over millennia, has provided a rich source of inspiration for the artists of The Double in designing settings, props and costumes.

中国几千年的历史和文化底蕴为《墨雨云间》的创作提供了丰富的灵感。



In preparation for showcasing the elegant "pearl makeup" inspired by Song Dynasty fashion, the production team researched historical and archival materials, including portraits of empresses from the reigns of emperors Huizong and Qinzong of the Song Dynasty, as well as works by renowned Song Dynasty painters like Liu Songnian and Zhao Boju.

在准备展现宋代时尚的“珍珠妆”时,制作团队深入研究了历史资料和档案,包括宋徽宗、宋钦宗时期的皇后画像,以及宋代著名画家刘松年、赵伯驹等人的作品。

The designers also found inspiration in the diverse aesthetic styles spanning different eras — from the period of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) through the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms (907-960) to the Song Dynasty. They infused vibrant colors favored by high society in these eras, such as blue, green, purple, orange and red, into the designs for the sets and costumes, while also featuring traditional crafts, such as embroidery, filigree and velvet flowers, in the plot, according to Ma.

从唐朝(618-907年)、五代十国(907-960年)到宋朝,设计师们汲取了不同时代的美学风格。他们将各时代上流社会喜爱的鲜艳色彩,如蓝、绿、紫、橙、红等,巧妙地融入布景和服装设计之中,同时结合传统工艺如刺绣、花丝和绒花,为观众呈现了一幅幅精美的视觉盛宴。


编辑 | ETTBL商务英语翻译

翻译|Romola

来源|China Daily

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